Instead, I have filled my days with Q.I. (Quite Interesting), the amazing BBC quiz-type show hosted by Stephen Fry from which I've learned an absurd number of things, none of which I can remember right now; Doctor Who (Amelia, I am shaking my fist at you for getting me hooked); and Frank McCourt's 'Tis on audiobook, which is like an Irish grandfather reading you the most depressing bedtime story ever. So really, things could be worse. Even though I have done nothing but go from lying in bed and doing the above things, to sitting in a chair and doing those things while eating, and then going back to lie in bed with a supply of cookies and tea to do those things, at least I haven't become a meth addict over break. It's all about perspective.
Yesterday, however, I felt it was time to break the vicious BBC/ tea cycle, so I hopped on a train to Reims, the champagne capital of the world. Just an hour away from Bar-le-Duc, Reims was a major city back in the day, hosting the coronations of all the French kings in its huge, gothic cathedral that gives Notre Dame of Paris a run for her money. The city was badly damaged in both world wars, but it was in Reims that Eisenhower received word of the Germans' surrender in May 1945. Reims is a modestly-sized city, probably comparable to nearby Nancy and Metz, so I was easily able to see its sights in just a day. No, I didn't have any champagne (it's just as expensive in Reims as it is everywhere else) but getting out of Bar-le-Duc was refreshing and bubbly enough.
The Subé fountain, erected in 1930. The angel at the top, "Victory," was taken by the Germans in WWII, but finally given back in 1989.
Notre Dame of Reims (completed early 14th century). The French kings have all been coronated on this very site, even before the cathedral was constructed. Clovis, the first king of the Franks, was baptized on this spot in 496 AD by Saint Remi.
The interior
Chagall's stained glass windows in the cathedral
Saint Remi Basilica (early 11th century)
The interior of the basilica
The monastery, which is now the Saint Remi museum
Buildings on one of the main roads
Today, I finally start my real vacation! It'll be a whirlwind of planes, trains and automobiles as usual, plus ferries even. Train to Paris tonight, plane to Dublin tomorrow morning, bus to Galway in the afternoon, and then a ferry to Inishmore on Saturday morning. I will resist the urge to speak in an Irish accent, lest the locals think I'm mocking them and throw me off the cliffs... but I really can't be held responsible after a few pints. Sláinte!
THE SECRET OF ROAN INISH
ReplyDeleteTotally know the feeling of wasting your free time. Since I only work in the evenings and on weekends, nobody else is around when I'm off. And while I have all these grand plans to go over my thesis, write some articles, or at least read, I often find myself putzing around on the internet, watching the entire series of Dexter, or some such. I can't risk getting into QI again, it is too dangerous! I'm convinced that there are an infinite number of episodes; if you watch them, they will never run out!
ReplyDeleteIf you get a chance, try and get to Glendalough. It's southwest of Dublin, and there is a nice little hostel nestled amongst the surrounding mountains. There's some amazing hiking, and the ruins of monastery. Two of the best days I've spent in Europe. Period.
And now you have written - a bit. I love the photos. You have also helped me realize I need new glasses because some of what I derived from my reading was: Reims is hosting a French kissing event; Reims is a mostly sized city and you are going there with Nancy Metz (I think I know her); and I'm still trying to figure out how the Germans took the picture of the angel at the top of "Victory" in WWII when it wasn't put back until 1989. Segueingly speaking, have a stupendous whirlwind - enjoy Dublin! I hear from the best that it's the best. And since Wikepedia says there truly is no Glocca Morra, I won't ask you to see if that little brook is still leaping there.
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